越来越多的线上平台正在为二手购物提供数字化升级，推出直播购物和人工智能搜索等功能，使二手交易更快捷、更富趣味性。

尽管选择二手商品而非新品通常是更可持续的选择，但专家指出，这并不意味着可以过度消费。他们警告称，二手转售也存在局限性，因为购买超出需求的商品仍会助长浪费，而且无论是否购买二手商品，在线购物都会因服务器运行和物流运输而产生额外碳排放。

以下是行业专家与时尚达人如何可持续地选购二手单品——以及如何找到既经久耐用又时髦有型的优质单品。

线上二手时尚的崛起

在eBay于纽约和伦敦举办的二手时装秀上，模特们身着可现场购买的二手设计师单品。eBay时尚业务副总裁亚历克西斯·胡普斯表示，此类二手商品占该公司销售额的40%。

她表示：“我们的首要任务之一，是让二手购物体验与一手市场购物同样优质。”

二手电商平台ThredUp和The RealReal今年销售额创下历史新高，表明线上转售市场正在快速增长。而Whatnot等实时拍卖应用则为消费者提供了更多竞拍二手服装的平台。

尽管消费者在浏览日益增多的线上购物选项时秉持可持续理念，但仍可能最终购买超出实际需求的商品。

耶鲁大学研究纺织品废弃物的博士后研究员梅塔尔·佩莱格·米兹拉希（Meital Peleg Mizrachi）表示：“研究发现，购买二手服装的人比不购买的人会买更多衣服。不仅如此，他们往往比其他消费者更快淘汰这些衣物。因此，由于购买量更大且使用周期更短，他们最终制造了更多的纺织品废弃物。”

纺织品回收委员会数据显示，慈善机构接收的衣物捐赠中仅有不到20%会在其门店转售。其余衣物或被降级回收、出口（通常流向全球南方国家），最终则填埋处理。

诺森比亚大学时尚学教授阿兰娜·詹姆斯（Alana James）表示，在线转售也会因运输和包装产生排放，而运营大型电子商务平台同样消耗能源，这些都是需要考虑的因素。但她指出，与生产一件新服装对环境造成的影响相比，这些都显得微不足道。

专家指出，真正的可持续时尚需要摆脱快时尚思维模式——即摆脱“立即购买”的持续压力，以及人为制造的稀缺感，这种稀缺感助长了过度消费。

时尚行业人权与气候正义倡导组织Remake的传播总监卡特里娜·卡斯佩里奇（Katrina Caspelich）表示，“血拼文化”——即在社交媒体上炫耀大规模购物狂欢的现象——以一种新方式展现了过度消费问题。

她表示：“负责任的二手购物意味着选择你真正会穿的单品，投资于品质，并抵制无休止的潮流循环的诱惑。”

甄选优质单品

男装内容创作者威兹丹·凯伊（Wisdom Kaye）表示，网购时可能难以判断商品质量，但向卖家询问服装面料成分会有所帮助。

卡斯佩里奇表示，天然面料是一个不错的切入点。

她说：“选择丝绸、棉布、竹纤维等透气耐用的天然材质，而非聚酯纤维或尼龙这类合成材料。”

男装内容创作者朱利安·卡特（Julian Carter）建议，消费者应选择带有内衬的衣物，并留意缝线工艺的质量。

时尚历史内容创作者韦斯利·布里德表示，其他二手买家希望购买上世纪90年代中期之前生产的更厚实的服装，因为当时更多的美国产品没有外包劳动力或大幅削减成本。

时尚内容创作者艾米·凯利表示，从年份到颜色，消费者在筛选海量在线搜索结果时，必须明确自己的具体需求。

“它能帮你找到更酷的单品，”她说道，“耐心点——四处看看，你总会发现的。”

延长衣物的使用寿命

找到合适的物品只是第一步，悉心呵护才能让它长久流转。

eBay二手时装秀《无尽天桥》主持人莉安娜·萨滕斯坦建议：用填充物保持包袋形状，将衣物存放于防尘袋中，并使用棉布袋和薰衣草喷雾来防止蛀虫侵蚀丝绸、羊毛和皮草等天然面料。

人们还可以通过以下方式减少衣物洗涤频率：增加单次穿着次数、局部清洁污渍、自然晾干衣物，并学习基础缝补技巧。

卡斯佩利奇表示："你会惊讶于有多少人仅仅因为掉了一颗纽扣就扔掉一件开衫。"

让时尚循环不息

二手衣物的可持续性不仅仅关乎避免服装被填埋处理。

耶鲁大学研究员米兹拉希表示，试图出售或捐赠衣物的人应当注意这些衣物的去向。

米兹拉希表示：“尽量把这些衣物送给小型社区商店或收容所——那些你知道会很乐意接收这些衣物的地方。”

Zara、H&M等品牌已推出回收计划。

eBay近日与英国零售商玛莎百货（Marks & Spencer）合作推出了一项回收计划，允许顾客在店内退回商品，以便在eBay上转售。

米兹拉奇表示，最可持续的选择其实就是减少购买。要让时尚公司改变经营方式，唯一途径就是让过度消费变得无利可图——这意味着消费者必须改变他们的购物习惯。

米兹拉希表示：“我们无法通过购买来摆脱气候危机。”

美联社的气候及环境报道获得多家私人基金会的资金支持。美联社对所有内容全权负责。有关美联社与慈善机构合作的标准、支持者名单及资助报道领域，请访问AP.org查询。

More online platforms are giving secondhand shopping a digital upgrade, rolling out features like livestream shopping and AI-powered search to make thrifting faster and more exciting.

Although choosing secondhand over new is often the more sustainable option, experts say its not a license to overconsume. They warn that resale has its limits, since buying more than you need still fuels waste, and shopping online can add emissions from servers and shipping, thrifted or not.

Heres how industry experts and fashion-forward shoppers shop secondhand sustainably and how to find quality pieces that last while looking cool, too.

The rise of online secondhand fashion

At eBays secondhand runway shows in New York and London, models wore pre-loved designer pieces that guests could shop live. Secondhand items like those make up 40% of the companys sales, said Alexis Hoopes, eBays vice president of fashion.

One of our big priorities is making secondhand just as good as shopping in the primary market, she said.

ThredUp and The RealReal have reported record sales this year, signaling that the online resale market is growing quickly. Live-auction apps like Whatnot are giving shoppers more platforms to bid on used clothing.

Shoppers navigating growing online options with an eye toward sustainability can still end up buying more than they need.

People who buy secondhand clothing were found to buy more clothing than people who dont, said Meital Peleg Mizrachi, a postdoctoral fellow at Yale University who researches textile waste. Not only that, they tend to get rid of those clothes faster than other consumers. So theyre ending up creating more textile waste because theyre buying more and using that clothing for a shorter period of time.

Less than 20% of clothing donations to charities are resold in their stores, according to the Council for Textile Recycling. The rest is downcycled, exported often to countries in the Global South or ultimately discarded in landfills.

Online resale also generates emissions from shipping and packaging, and running massive e-commerce platforms consumes energy, all factors that need to be considered, said Alana James, a fashion professor at Northumbria University. But all of that pales in comparison to the environmental impact of producing a new garment, she said.

Experts say truly sustainable fashion requires breaking away from the fast-fashion mindset the constant pressure to buy now and the manufactured sense of scarcity that fuels overconsumption.

Haul culture the social media trend of showing off massive shopping sprees shows overconsumption in a new way, said Katrina Caspelich, communications director for Remake, an advocacy group for human rights and climate justice in fashion.

Responsible secondhand shopping means choosing pieces youll truly wear, investing in quality and resisting the pull of endless trend cycles, she said.

Spotting the best quality pieces

It can be difficult to determine quality when shopping online, but asking the seller about the garments composition can help, said Wisdom Kaye, a menswear content creator.

Natural fabrics are a good place to start, said Caspelich.

Look for silk, cotton, bamboo things that breathe and last versus synthetics like polyester or nylon, she said.

Shoppers should look for items that are lined and make note of the quality of the stitching, said Julian Carter, a menswear content creator.

Other secondhand buyers want to buy heftier clothing made before the mid-1990s, when more U.S. products were made without outsourced labor or a lot of cost-cutting, said Wesley Breed, a fashion history content creator.

From the year to the color, shoppers sifting through hundreds of thousands of search results online should be very specific about what they want, said Aimee Kelly, a fashion content creator.

It helps you find the cooler pieces, she said. And have patience look around, youre gonna find it.

Making your pieces last

Finding the right item is only the first step caring for it ensures it stays in circulation.

Stuff bags to maintain their shape, keep clothing in garment bags, and use muslin bags and lavender sprays to keep out moths that eat natural fabrics like silk, wool and fur, said Liana Satenstein, host of eBays Endless Runway secondhand fashion show.

People can also wear clothes more between washes, spot-clean and air-dry clothes, and learn to sew.

Youd be shocked how many people just toss a cardigan because a button fell off, Caspelich said.

Keeping fashion in the loop

Secondhand sustainability isnt just about keeping clothes out of landfills.

People who try to sell or give away their clothes should be mindful of where theyre going, said Mizrachi, the Yale researcher.

Try to give them to smaller community stores or shelters places that you know are happy to get those clothes, Mizrachi said.

Zara, H&M and other brands have launched recycling programs.

eBay recently partnered with British retailer Marks & Spencer for a take-back program that lets shoppers return items in-store to be resold on eBay.

But the most sustainable choice is simply buying less, Mizrachi said. The only way to make fashion companies change how they do business is to make overconsumption unprofitable which means buyers need to change their habits, she said.

We cant purchase our way out of the climate crisis, Mizrachi said.

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